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知足走過戲代光輝 李衍宏

知足走過戲代光輝 李衍宏
王亭嵐/台北報導

  推開金宏服裝社的玻璃門,纖瘦的身影從搖椅上起身,眼前這位操著湖南口音,85歲高齡的李衍宏老闆,許多知名戲劇的服裝打點,就是出自於他的手。從保鑣、包青天到施公奇案等等,不只膾炙人口的八點檔連續劇,連九點半的單元劇也有五、六部是由他負責。談到過往的風光歲月,李衍宏認為不論戲劇是否走紅,每一齣戲的服裝都是盡全力準備,一視同仁,他開玩笑說:「每一部我都是努力去做,因為你怎麼料得到戲會不會紅?」
金宏服裝社老闆李衍宏

  身為金宏服裝社的老闆,原先以為李衍宏就是獨立製作衣服的師傅,經他說明,才了解原來一件戲服的誕生,得經過層層關卡,由好幾位師傅合力完成。製作單位的美術畫好設計圖後,李衍宏就依著設計圖挑選衣服的質料與顏色,批布給裁縫師傅製版,再給繡花師傅,配件也有專門的師傅,而李衍宏是主要發配的統籌者。別以為李衍宏只是發號司令,雖然戲服並非他親手製作,但全是由他掌控、親眼檢查每一個細節,衣服的好壞,他一眼就瞧出端倪。

  這衣服代表的可是李衍宏的名聲,由於他認真、盡業的態度讓他贏得好口碑,成為許多製作單位爭相合作的對象。趕戲時,為了配合製作單位的進度,一、兩天就得趕出一件,一位師傅忙不過來,他就同時請兩、三個師傅熬夜製作,人手的費用也是自己吸收,只為了把事情做得更好。他不只配合度高,不易發怒的好脾氣亦為人所稱道,猶記有一次碰上風評難搞的導演,其他同業都不願意與他合作,製作單位找不到人,一再來拜託他,他了解製作單位的難處,最後心一軟仍接下了這個重擔,接下來果然是災難的開始,一件衣服被導演退貨好幾次,李衍宏無奈地說:「被退貨,就只好修改。」被這樣一整,很多人都覺得早該生氣了,但他只是淡淡帶過:「生氣是不會啦,至少也是拿錢做事,覺得導演難搞,其實也是代表他是有主見、有想法的人。」懷著同理心,他把工作當作是種樂趣,不過,這些都是早期拍攝古裝劇才容易碰到的問題,現在時裝劇當道,服裝大多是演員自己準備或廠商贊助,這樣的苦差事少之又少,「以前時局好,一天一集,七點就發通告,道具、佈景、服裝就得先準備,一天十小時,超過時間也會有加班費、餐費,苦是苦但也賺的多,現在行情差了,幾個月才接一部戲。」該說落得輕鬆抑或感嘆,李衍宏認為時局在變,這也是無法改變的事實;少了艾艾怨怨,多了知天命的豁達,這就是他的處世哲學。

  李衍宏參與過許多知名戲劇,為多少當紅演員量身定做戲服,聊到是否遇過演員刁難,他透露真正的大牌演員個性是很親切的,反而是想紅卻不走紅的小咖演員才會故意找碴。印象深刻的一次,當年有一組戲是由李翰翔執導,知名影星李麗華主演,他提出設計圖時,李麗華認為服裝款式太落伍、老氣,他當下就拜託對方給他一天的時間找資料,李麗華相當和藹,答應資料找好再陪他一起到店裡挑選料子。大牌演員的風範就此烙印在他心上,見到李麗華如此嚴格要求演出水準,李衍宏絲毫不敢掉以輕心,也影響他往後對歷史考究的重視。

  台灣古裝劇沒落,市場漸漸移往大陸,同業退休的退休,收店的收店,李衍宏面對這樣的變遷,仍守著胼手胝足打拚來的店,即便現今幾乎以大陸市場為主,但他認為「台灣製造」的還是比較好。跟大陸低廉的價格相比,台灣講究的是品質,民國七、八十年他就曾觀摩大陸工廠,發現他們為了降低成本偷工減料,他一摸就知道這料子、縫功不紮實,衣服穿沒幾次肯定就壞,如果是他寧願多貼幾萬元,也不願出來的是一件爛衣服。言談中不乏透露李衍宏至今仍守著這間店的堅持,他總把一句話掛在嘴邊:「我不用賺大錢,可以過日子就好了。」凡事不斤斤計較,只在乎自己是否對得起別人,就是這樣知足安樂的個性,金宏服裝社和他才能長久走到今天。

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