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穿衣達人 征服萬件服裝穿法

穿衣達人 征服萬件服裝穿法
王亭嵐/台北報導

  聽到服裝師這個行業,大多人的直覺想像是在美容節目或綜藝節目上,教觀眾如何穿搭衣服、整理造型的服裝造型師,甚至是與「時尚」畫上等號的代言人。大家或許不曉得,還有另外一群默默付出,造就無數戲劇的幕後功臣,他們在電視台的服裝庫工作,是管理近萬套服裝的管理員,也曾是為多少大牌演員換上精美戲服的穿衣達人。

  通常一齣戲劇在前製時期,製作單位會派導演和服裝設計一起來挑選服裝,而服裝庫的服裝師主要工作就是介紹有哪些適合的服裝,或是當導演說出需求,可以馬上挑出幾件衣服供他們選擇,甚至有時候得獨挑大樑,憑藉平時累積的經驗發揮,這不僅考驗著服裝師的搭配美感,還必須非常了解服裝庫的庫藏,才能在近萬套的茫茫衣海中,快速又精準地找到合適的衣服。

  古裝比起時裝複雜許多,二件式是最基本的,一件內裏加上外衣,只是古裝的設計往往沒有這麼簡單,多層次外衣、披風、腰帶、配件…等都是考驗著他們搭配的功力。讓複雜難穿的衣服變得好穿,就是服裝師的技巧,一位好的服裝師,懂得依照演員的體型身材調整服裝的比例,碰上高個兒就要把服裝放大,遇到矮個子就會把衣服藏起來,讓觀眾看不出尺寸不合的破綻,甚至有一種專為演員量身訂做的錯覺。但是衣服怎麼放大?怎麼藏?華視服裝庫領班王慧萍小姐笑著說﹔「這也沒有什麼撇步,全是靠經驗的累積。」倒是每位服裝師都有專用的工具箱,裡面必備針線包、繩子、別針、釦子、彩帶、棉線…等等,假如衣服太寬鬆就綁棉線,比較不易滑落,或是太單調就以彩帶來搭配,在調整服裝時非常好用。

古裝的穿法較為繁複,配件也相當多。

古裝的穿法較為繁複,配件也相當多。

  不同料子的衣服都有必須注意的技巧,像絲綢這類的服裝會有比較多的繫繩,料子也容易滑,替演員穿的時候就要刻意綁緊、綁好一點,演員雖然叫歸叫,但還是得向他們說明,否則演出時一個轉身或一個大動作,裙子滑落了反而出糗,如果碰上吊鋼絲更要注意,走光還只是小事,萬一影響到安全可就得不償失。

  戲劇服裝各式各種,古代的、現代的,輕薄或厚重,有些更是機關重重。王慧萍小姐向我們秀出了一項秘密武器──胖襖,可別小看這一件棉製的小背心,仔細一摸料子相當厚實,像一件小棉被一樣。它的主要功用並不是讓演員保暖,而是為了撐起演員的身材。記得華視古裝戲劇《懷玉公主》飾演皇帝的奶油小生孫耀威嗎?身形纖弱的他如何展現出皇袍的威風凜凜,就是全靠這一件!王姐接著補充,假如效果不夠,還會在胖襖的肩膀處加上墊肩,整理造型看起來才夠大氣。

就是這件胖襖,幫助多少演員撐起皇帝的架式。

就是這件胖襖,幫助多少演員撐起皇帝的架式。

  在戲劇的世界裡,穿衣服從來就不是小事,更別說是古裝戲,精美的服裝不僅增添畫面的美觀,更是塑造角色個性的關鍵。當觀眾欣賞一齣戲劇、讚嘆演員美麗裝扮的同時,別忘了背後可是服裝師運用自身的經驗技巧,才能成就演員的完美演出。

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